Sicily, Italy

Palermo, Sicily 

We seem to attract demonstrations. Many of the cities we have visited in various countries seem to have strikes or demonstrations just when we are walking by. The first afternoon we arrived in Palermo we took a walk on Via Roma, one of the major streets in Palermo. We heard a shouted voices and honking horns just ahead of us. The honking was from the many cars, trucks and buses that were stuck at an intersection blocked by two overturned garbage bins on each of the four sides of the intersection. In the center of the intersection were about 20 men, loudly proclaiming their right to be there. Almost an equal number of police looked bored waiting for the demonstrators to move on. It didn’t look as if the blockage would be cleared up any time soon.

The next morning we were out early waiting at the bus stop at Teatro Politeama for the 9:15 AM airport shuttle. A taxi driver stopped and said the streets were blocked and the airport bus might not be able to reach us. We declined his offer of a ride and decided to trust the bus would arrive. Soon after an official from the bus company came and said there was trouble but we could get the bus farther down the street. The bus arrived and had to back up to take a detour but it did make it to the airport. We had a good view of a huge crowd beside the Teatro Politeama and someone waving a lit flare at the head of the crowd. I never did find out what the issue was. There are probably plenty of excuses to demonstrate in Italy.

Our Easyjet flight from Rome to Palermo on Wednesday October 2 was uneventful and even arrived early, which meant we had time for an afternoon gelato. We were not the only ones taking a gelato break. Business men arrived to order gelato in a bun. We had never seen that combo before and several people since told us it was a treat not to be missed. It was even superb for breakfast.

new monument dedicated to the fight against the Mafia

Being an early arrival in Palermo, the manager of our B&B was not there to answer our call. He lives elsewhere. A kind gentleman entering our B&B building phoned for us and arranged for the B&B manager to rush over to let us in and explain the routine. We didn’t stay long in our room before setting out on a preliminary walking tour of Palermo. That is when we saw our first demonstration. A new monument dedicated to the fight against the Mafia, standing as a sentinel on the waterfront caught our eye. We continued on past many historic buildings. There were ancient churches and ornate theatres that we admired from the outside before returning to our room. That night we enjoyed an very good meal at an Osterio two doors from our B&B.

The next day we did a longer walk exploring the large and active market and more historic buildings. Quattro Canti is the district at the intersection of two main streets. Each of the four corner buildings was decorated with elegant 18C baroque facades with fountains dedicated to four seasons, plus niches for statues of the four kings of Sicily and four patron saints of Palermo. Behind the intersection is a 16C Florentine fountain surrounded by ornate buildings and three churches that can be visited if they are open.

One of our favourite visits was to Capella Palatino, built between 1130-1140 by Richard II, a Norman King as part of his Royal Palace. The interior walls of the chapel were entirely covered in mosaics made of coloured paste with glass and gold leaf telling the stories of the bible and gospels.

The cathedral in Palermo had a special display honouring the memory of Giuseppe "Pino" Puglisi, a priest in a rough neighbourhood of Palermo who openly challenged the Mafia. He was shot and killed by the Mafia on his birthday in 1993. His murder shocked the whole of Italy and helped bring those responsible to justice. Puglisi was designated a martyr for his bravery by Pope Benedict XVI and the official beatification ceremony was just last May.

We ended that day with a dinner at Al Cantalleria Verde, near our B&B. Ray declared that restaurant was his top pick so far. We decided that one day and a half in Palermo was Ok but there was still much to see that will have to wait for another visit.